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Dudok: brasserie met tijdloze architectuur

Bij gouwe ouwe DUDOK eet je traditionele gerechten in een bijzonder en tijdloos interieur.

25 Mei 2016 Lorenzo Juan de Navascués y Lauzet

blogger Lorenzo is architect en komt oorspronkelijk uit Spanje. Hij ontdekt graag nieuw en lekker eten en drinken en is dol op authentieke en ambachtelijke smaken en zaken.

Dudok: brasserie met tijdloze architectuur

Sinds jaar en dag komt heel Rotterdam bij Café Dudok, daar op de hoek van de Meent en Westewagenstraat. Al sinds het open ging, heeft het zijn bezoekers op verschillende manieren geïnspireerd. Voor ontbijt en borrel, diner en lunch. Tout Rotterdam komt hier met veel plezier en het is ook nog eens een zaak met een 'architectuurrijk' verhaal. 

De gordijnen door

Het is momenteel nog een beetje fris buiten, maar dat houdt mij niet tegen. Ik grijp elke kans om door onze bruisende stad te wandelen als de zon schijnt. En ook als het een beetje regent trouwens. Ik vind het gewoon leuk, ook omdat zo’n wandeling me een excuus geeft om ergens een hapje te eten. Met het frisse lenteweer krijg ik zin in een lekker warm drankje, misschien ook in iets zoets, of zelfs een uitgebreide lunch – waarom ook niet? Ik bevind me in de stadsdriehoek en denk dus meteen aan Dudok. Eerlijk gezegd denk ik ook aan Dudok als ik me in een ander gedeelte van de stad bevind... zelfs als ik gewoon thuis zit. Oké, het is misschien een voorspelbare keus, toch blijft het elke keer speciaal voor mij. Dudok is zeker een van mijn favoriete restaurants in de stad. En een van mijn favoriete entrees. Ik geniet ervan om die dikke gele gordijnen te openen en het vertrouwde café binnen te stappen. Tijd voor iets lekkers dus. Waar zal ik mee beginnen…?

Lekker chaotisch

Ik stap binnen en speur het café af naar een tafel. Tja, het is altijd druk hier... Gelukkig is er plaats op een bank bij de zes meter hoge pui, waar ik uitzicht heb op de gehele ruimte. Die pui vind ik architectonisch indrukwekkend, het zorgt voor een moderne uitstraling, het maakt de zaal ruimer en het laat ontzettend veel zonlicht door. Ik kijk hoe de drukke obers uit de keuken komen en tussen de tafels lopen met hun volle dienbladen. 

De keuken en de bar zijn voor mij nog twee karakteristieke kenmerken van Dudok. Ze maken de hoge ruimte rond en geven – samen met de eetkamers erboven – eenheid en karakter aan de grote en misschien wat chaotische eetzaal. Stiekem heb ik heb het grote aantal tafels altijd een nadeel gevonden van de inrichting van Dudok. De ruimte komt beter tot z’n recht als het iets leger is. Desondanks is het er altijd gezellig. 

Keuzes maken


Ondanks dat Dudok een schijnbaar traditionele Nederlandse menukaart heeft, zijn er toch gerechten en details die je zullen verrassen. Enerzijds omdat ze niet overal te vinden zijn en anderzijds omdat ze traditioneel, maar toch meer uitgesproken zijn dan verwacht. Vandaag ga ik voor een uitsmijter met zalm en rosbief op bruin brood. Andere favorieten? De heerlijke ciabatta pulled pork en de warme, zachte linzensoep. Ik vraag of de uitsmijter ook nog met oude kaas kan, daar ben ik gek op. Verder wordt de uitsmijter gekruid met bieslook, een heerlijke combinatie. Volgende keus? Taart!


Het taartassortiment verdient bij Dudok een speciale vermelding. Naast de beroemde appeltaart (die inmiddels overal in Nederland te verkrijgen is), zijn er nog andere taarten, zoals de chocolade-truffeltaart, die absoluut het proberen waard zijn. Ik kies vandaag de bosvruchten-cheesecake, met een wat krokante bodem van koek- en speculaasdeeg, daarop een heerlijke en romige kaascrème, afgetopt met een bosvruchten coulis: zalig. (Ik ben zelfs zo enthousiast dat ik meteen proef en vergeet er een foto van te maken). Ze schenken bij Dudok thee van Betjeman & Barton. Vooral als je van natuurthee houdt, is de 'Yunnan Vert' een aanrader. Past ook hartstikke goed bij mijn lunch.

Vierkante sfeer

Willem Marinus Dudok was architect en stedenbouwkundige en ontwierp het kantoorgebouw De Nederlanden in 1945. In 1991 wordt het oude kantoorpand gevuld door een café-brasserie dat naar de architect vernoemd wordt. Oude details, zoals de oude entree aan de Meent, zijn bewaard gebleven. Het interieur van Dudok bestaat tegenwoordig uit een mix van zowel oude als nieuwe elementen, die wonderwel bij elkaar passen. De vierkante lampen, het houten- en metalen meubilair, de dikke zuilen, de leestafel en die mooie grote klok! Allemaal ontworpen of geïnspireerd door Willem Dudok. Ik vind bovendien dat zijn stijl perfect bij het eetconcept van Dudok past: traditioneel maar modern, simpel maar smaakvol, bijzonder en tijdloos. Dit café heeft het allemaal, wat voor een bijzonder contrast zorgt. Het is een gezellige chaos die mij enorm aanspreekt.

Dat vindt Ramon van Zanen, manager van Dudok Rotterdam, ook. Ondanks de wat chaotische drukte, maakt hij even tijd voor me. 'Ons publiek is heel divers, van jong tot oud en van rasechte Rotterdam tot toerist, dat maakt Dudok, Dudok,' vertelt hij. 'Wij zitten op een prachtige locatie, het gebouw heeft een bijzondere uitstraling en de sfeer is heel divers en toegankelijk voor iedereen.' Daar ben ik het helemaal mee eens.

Be-vestigingen

Met de jaren hebben beide vestigingen van Dudok Rotterdam een eigen naam opgebouwd. En ook buiten de stad breidt Dudok uit: er zijn maar liefst drie vestigingen geopend in Arnhem, Den Haag en Tilburg. Dit jaar zou Willem Dudok 132 jaar oud geworden zijn en in februari heeft het restaurant zijn vijfentwintigste verjaardag gevierd. Ik kan de toekomst niet voorspellen, maar ik ben ervan overtuigd dat Dudok nog lang als een van de grote favorieten van Rotterdam  zal blijven bestaan.

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